Gold, Sterling Silver, Monet, Platinum...

Though we concentrate exclusively on Gemstones & related Services, having no direct correlation with the Gold/Silver industry, we are giving herein an information calendar that would help you understanding these metal well.

There are some examples of terms above that are used most often during the manufacture and trading of Gold in
bullion and jewellery products.

Our aims to help people new to the industry (customer, students and even designers) define the meanings behind these types of terms.
You just click over the "terms" above for their definition.

(Characteristics in a Glance)

Gold is available in different colors, as Gold can make alloy with almost every other base metals. Nickel & Copper are widely used for this purpose.

Gold purity can be tested with inexpensive devices that measure electrical conduction.

Remember, 18 K gold is only 75% pure & 25% alloy. Similarly 12 K gold is only 50% pure & 50% alloy.

There are guidelines for jewellers in every country, more or less same, keeping the interest of target audience or customer. Following is the U.S.F.T.C. guidelines :-
       1) "Karatage" has to be stamped on, with trademark.
         2) Terms "pure gold" and "solid gold" can only be used for 24 karat gold.
         3) Term "gold" can only be used if gold content is 10 K or better.
         4) Term "gold filled" applies only to items composed of a layer of gold pressed (not alloyed) onto a base metal where the weight of the gold comprises at least 1/20th of the total weight of the item. Fineness must be shown by stamp, e.g. "1/20 12 k G.F." means the gold layer is 12 karat gold and comprises 1/20th of the total weight of the item.
         5) Term "rolled gold plate" is the same, but gold comprises less than 1/20 of total weight; e.g. stamped "1/30 12 k G.P." means 1/30 of the metal weight is from 12 karat gold plate.
         6) "Gold electroplate" or "gold flash" or "gold washed" means a gold coating that is 10 k or better gold at least 0.000007 inches thick. A variant, "heavy gold electroplate" (H.G.E.P.) is at least 0.0001 inches thick.

Jewelry or other item with a sheet of gold applied to its surface. Newer items contain markings that indicate how much and what type of gold was used in the layer. Example: a marking of 1/20 12K G.F. means that the piece is at least 1/20th 12K gold by weight.

A stamped mark which is applied to items of jewellery and silverware by the Assay Offices of Britain as a guarantee of authenticity. It acts as a safeguard to purchasers. The mark consists of four components. The sponsor (or manufacturer) mark, the standard mark which denotes the precious metal content of the item, the Assay Office Mark (London, Birmingham, Sheffield and Edinburgh) and the date letter which shows the year in which the article was hallmarked.

A term used to describe the filings, dust and small particles of precious metal collected from a jewellers workbench which are formed during the manufacture of jewellery articles. Lemels will be sold to refiners and bullion dealers who recover the precious metal content.

A unit of measurement generally used to determine bangle widths. There are forty lignes to the inch.

Scrap material which consists of floor sweepings from manufacturers premises. A typical sweep contains dust, paper, used packing material, cigarette ends etc. It is periodically sent to a bullion dealer or refiner who will determine any precious metal content through a process of incineration, crushing, riddling and mixing. The manufacturer will then be paid for any metal content found.

The degree of hardness exhibited by a metal.

The term used to describe the metal in its purest form i.e., unalloyed with no additions.

A base metal alloy bonded to a "veneer" of precious metal, usually 10 Karat. This term is used more frequently in the UK. Available in various qualities determined by the carat gold thickness and base metal type. Most common requirements are for 1/10 9Ct DF on Oroton, and 1/20 9Ct DF on Oroton, where the fraction represents the proportion of gold alloy to base metal and Oroton is the base metal type. Available as single or double plate, ie, gold alloy on one or both sides.

"Karatage" denoted as 'K' is the universal unit to measure the purity of gold.
Specific Gravity for pure gold is 19.3. 24-ct gold is 100% pure.

Silver

A soft white lustrous transition metal, silver has the highest electrical and thermal conductivity of any metal and occurs in minerals and in free form.

A unit of measurement generally used to determine bangle widths. There are forty lignes to the inch.

The degree of hardness exhibited by a metal.

The term used to describe the metal in its purest form i.e., unalloyed with no additions.

A white and highly reflective precious metal. Sterling refers to silver that is 92.5 percent pure, which should be stamped on the metal, sometimes accompanied by the initials of the designer or country of origin as a hallmark. Although less durable than stainless steel and other precious metals, sterling silver is often employed in watches that coordinate or look like sterling jewelry. A protective coating may be added to prevent tarnish.
The Hallmark for sterling silver varies from nation to nation.

This has a higher percentage of pure silver (95.8%) and is softer than sterling silver. It is useful for making silver ware other than jewellery, such as bowls and boxes. The Britannia mark is 958 plus the optional addition of Britannia and the lion.

Britannia silver was mandatory in England from 1697 to 1720 to prevent the melting down of sterling coins to create silver objects.

Very fine silver or gold wire is applied to the first coat of enamel to form cells which are filled with coloured enamels. The resulting design is often finer and more delicate than in the champlev� technique.

Vermeil (Pronounced vehr-MAY) is a term that means gold over silver. Vermeil is a gold-plating process which was developed in France in the mid-1700s. In the 19th century, France banned production of vermeil because the process involved the use of mercury. Present-day vermeil refers to an overplaying of gold onto silver using a safe electrolytic process.

Pure silver has a specific gravity of 10.5. Similar in weight to 14K gold.
Silver has cost advantages, especially in opulent settings.Silver combined with eiter a colored stone or with freshwater pearls in a multi-strand necklace or bracelet provides a symbolic statement of elegance and an affordable cost.

In the past, gold plating was notorious for wearing through to the base metal. Today�s technology makes that a thing of the past. The plating done today will last a lifetime with proper care.